An
enamel or Rostov Finift in terms of jewellery is a fusion with the use
of a special powdered glass to the metals. The name Rostov is the name
of the town of the enamel goods was produced and FINIT is an Old Russian
names of enamel methods being made.
There
are different ways and skills to make the glass but all the methods use
the heat to melt the powder. In the past, they used enamel that worked
with silver but none of the region matched the fine quality of the
Russians craftsmanship. One of the process used by the Russians were of
the filigree sterling silver then the enamel jewellery carried a history
at its time. In order to relate enamel in other term is that it is an
enhancing method applied to the glass to the surface of a metal usually
of copper, gold or bronze.
Enamel
jewellery history draws back to Egypt in 1800 BC, when gold ornaments
were inlaid with small pieces of precious stone and in the 300 BC, the
Greeks merged the semi-precious stones into their designs, including
emeralds, amethysts, garnets, and pearls. While in 1862, the jewellery
gained in popularity after the death of Prince Albert.
Today's
enamel jewellery has a beautiful finish and comes in hundreds of
wonderful colours. Recently the "new enamel" has emerged; bright epoxy
paints that embrace the colour spectrum and can turn a plain piece of
pewter jewellery into something stunningly original.
True
enamel jewellery making involves fusing coloured, powdered glass to
metals using heat. In the 1950s my parents kept a small kiln in the old
coal cellar of our house where they created masterpieces in ashtrays and
screw-on earrings. (Both of them were artists, but this was just a side
hobby) I still have some lovely examples of copper earrings with
intricately patterned enamelling in warm colours and designs.
Perhaps
the epoxy paints used to produce so many of today's masterpieces
shouldn't strictly be called enamel, but at first glance there isn't
much difference. Purists may differ, but materials used to produce
various effects do alter through time.
I
find it fascinating that some enamel work has been found as early as
the Hellenistic epoch, a period of time from Alexander the Great's death
in 323 B.C. to 146 B.C. when the Romans conquered Greece. By the end of
this time period, enamelling and use of coloured stones in jewellery
making was becoming more popular than work done by the gold and
silversmiths of the day. I think people of all times have loved colour,
and the brilliance of a ruby or even an earring inset with colourful but
inexpensive enamel began competing with the precious metals for the eye
of the rich shopper centuries ago.
The
5th century Byzantine world saw the creation of very ornate jewellery.
Enamelling was liberally used in the designs, along with peals and
precious stones. There was much beautiful jewellery created during this
time period, all the way up to 1204 when Constantinople, capital of the
Byzantine empire fell during the Crusades and so many gorgeous objects
of art were melted down for their worth in gold and silver alone.
The
Anglo-Saxons of the 7th century created some intricate cloisonné enamel
work, much of it polychrome, meaning "many colours". These were
detailed designs reminiscent of Celtic knot work and must have been
incredibly time consuming.
Moving
forward into the early Renaissance, enamel continued as a favourite
medium for many jewellery artists. I'm looking at a photo of a lovely
enamel pendant in gold and blue depicting a branch with many-hued birds.
It seems to be a locket, although the shape is irregular so it
certainly didn't hold a painted portrait. Perhaps it was used to keep
herbs or gemstones inside.
Wherever
artists create jewellery, enamel will be found. From detailed cloisonné
work in ancient China to today's epoxy enamel earrings and pins, colour
will always evoke emotion and excitement. Enamel has long been a way to
enter colour into designs without having to supply the expensive and
limited variations of precious and semiprecious stones.
Enamel jewellery comes in:
Enamel Bangles Jewellery
Enamel Pendant Jewellery
Enamel Ring Jewellery
Enamel Earring Jewellery
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